When I woke up this morning the radio was once more full of news of busy busy transport systems and places! Bank holiday Easter Saturday is apparently the worst! Someone needs to tell the good folks of Northumberland this because today, once again, was a day of very few people out and about and even fewer cars!
Today could have been another walking disaster but I think I rescued it into quite a nice day. I spent a long time considering my walking options over my breakfast bacon bagel! Although I love a beach walk, I wanted to go somewhere new and I’ve walked all the beaches from Bamburgh to Amble! I did consider Holy Island but the threatened rampaging gangs of tourists put me off. I decided I would head inland to the Cheviots and get an evening beach walk on the way home.
I consulted the OS App once more - after Thursday’s disaster I decided to give it one more chance. I selected a random route that seemed to have lots of interesting and diverse things to see and terrain to walk. My decision was confirmed as a good one when I noticed there was an Old Manse on the route. Little did I know that I had picked another duff route. Not due to “no dogs” this time but due to seasonal and meteorological factors! More later.
We headed out to a place called Holystone - the other side of the very pretty little town of Rothbury. I had visited Rothbury briefly last summer. What I didn’t know then, that I know now, is that Rothbury was famous for being the place that Raoul Moat was finally cornered and killed by the police!
I parked up in a Forestry Commission car park and we headed out.
The first part of the walk was around the edge of Harbottle Wood. This was active forestry land and, it turns out an MOD practice ground as well. The walking was made particularly difficult with regular boggy sections of the path to slosh through
Then it was the pleasure of a dry walk along the road to the little village of Harbottle. There was a pub but no pub garden so I pressed on through the village and onto the site of Harbottle Castle.
Rather over officiously there was a dogs on lead rule. With 2 dogs this would have been a disaster but with a well behaved Tilly it was fine. We had snacks and a drink amongst the ruins. Like all the other castles round here, it was built by the English then briefly taken over by the Scot’s (by Robert the Bruce no less!!) before going back to the English. Its claim to fame was its was where Henry VIIIs sister, Margaret, was banished after the death of her first husband - King James IV of Scotland.
During this rest I decided to cut out a 4 mile section of the walk up to Drake Rock. From where I was standing it looked a fairly steep ascent and wooded (therefore muddy) descent and I didn’t want to mess my foot up for a beach walk later.
At the castle I met 2 couples - these were to be the only walkers I saw during my 3 hour (6 mile) hike - bloody busy Bank Holidays!! I walked back through the village and over a foot bridge to cross the river Coquet (the same river that runs through Warkworth).
There was then a long footpath / Bridleway that ran close to the river back towards Sharperton. On the map the bridleway seemed to cross the river but there wasn’t a bridge shown. I started to have my doubts but the only alternatives were road based and long!
So it was no great surprise when I got to the River Coquet again and was faced with the reality of my situation. The river could i’m sure be carefully crossed in the summer but this was late March after record rainfall in Feb and March! This picture shows the depressing site I faced.
I slumped down on the bank and considered my options. I smiled to myself to imagine the feedback Kim would be giving me at this stage. The alternative route was 3/4 mile back down the Bridleway (whence I came!) and then 1.5 miles on country lanes to get me to about 200 yds from the other side of the river! If Kim had been with me that would have been the chosen option. But she wasn’t and I really couldn’t face it. So ….. I took my shoes off and rolled up my trousers over my knees.
I thought it would be no more than 18 inches deep. I was wrong, at its worst it got well over my knees meaning my trousers were soaked. My stick was invaluable to help me across. It was made harder as I had to drag Tilly across as she wasn’t going anywhere voluntarily. It turns out she had to swim the last 5 yards. I think that’s the first time she’s ever swum!!
Goodness I was pleased to get my self onto the opposite bank. The feeling of satisfaction of a problem solved was immense. For several minutes I just laid on the bank with my wet trousers and bemused collie, in a zen like state of
satisfaction. I’d been so focussed on getting across I hadn’t registered immediately how bloody cold it was!
The next part of the walk was lovely. Not sure if I was still in a state of euphoria from my river crossing or what but we crossed fields of sheep, then horses and then cows. Tilly was perfectly behaved on the lead.
Then the best bit of the walk. Just as we were approaching our starting village of Holystone we literally stumbled across a little oasis of calm and beauty.
Lady’s Well was a tiny National Trust site. Amongst all the wet and rugged nature this little garden was so out of place. It turns out that in medieval times there was an Augustine Priory here. This was the well that the canonesses used and still feeds the village today.
Tilly and I sat down for 10 minutes in a this beautiful place in a contemplative mood - well I was, I’m not sure about her?! I’m not religious but religious places like this have always been good for my sole. As usual my reflections were mainly about Kim. But I’m happy to report I left feeling better about life and concluded that this place I had stumbled across had some sort of mystical aura. Yeh, crazy I know!
The car was only another 15 minutes walk away. I lifted Tilly on board - she was too wet and knackered to jump up herself - and we headed back to Alnwick. I wanted to go in Barters Books (supposed to be one of the biggest 2nd hand book shops in the country) while I had the chance.
It didn’t dissapoint! I bought 2 books - one on body language and the other Tom Browns schooldays (set at Rugby School - my current employer!).
We headed for Dunstan Steads for one final look at the sea. The tide was right in so we walked towards Dunstanburgh Castle on the path across the sand dunes and then back on the edge of the golf course to the car.
I fancied a pint. The normal village pub I go to was too busy so I went to newly re-opened Blue Bell. A really friendly landlord and good beer but the only food they had on was fish and chips. It was very average - certainly compared to the wonderful fish from Neptunes at Seahouses!
Back to Brunnehilda for more Cadburys chocolate, strawberry trifle and a DVD. This time, the Brazilian film, City of God. It was excellent - albeit very long!
Blogging in bed and then planning my getaway tomorrow. It’s been a splendid 3 days. I think each day has got better and the weather has been amazing. The next time I’m back here will be in August with my grandsons!! My favourite place with my favourite people - can’t wait!
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