The Harbottle Hills - 30th Mar ‘24

In my view, the clocks going forward is the end of winter. They go forward tonight and I’m up early tomorrow morning heading for home. So it’s Spring and I’m sprung!

When I woke up this morning the radio was once more full of news of busy busy transport systems and places! Bank holiday Easter Saturday is apparently the worst! Someone needs to tell the good folks of Northumberland this because today, once again, was a day of very few people out and about and even fewer cars! 

Today could have been another walking disaster but I think I rescued it into quite a nice day. I spent a long time considering my walking options over my breakfast bacon bagel! Although I love a beach walk, I wanted to go somewhere new and I’ve walked all the beaches from Bamburgh to Amble! I did consider Holy Island but the threatened rampaging gangs of tourists put me off. I decided I would head inland to the Cheviots and get an evening beach walk on the way home. 

I consulted the OS App once more - after Thursday’s disaster I decided to give it one more chance. I selected a random route that seemed to have lots of interesting and diverse things to see and terrain to walk. My decision was confirmed as a good one when I noticed there was an Old Manse on the route. Little did I know that I had picked another duff route. Not due to “no dogs” this time but due to seasonal and meteorological factors! More later.

We headed out to a place called Holystone - the other side of the very pretty little town of Rothbury. I had visited Rothbury briefly last summer. What I didn’t know then, that I know now, is that Rothbury was famous for being the place that Raoul Moat was finally cornered and killed by the police!

I parked up in a Forestry Commission car park and we headed out. 

The first part of the walk was around the edge of Harbottle Wood. This was active forestry land and, it turns out an MOD practice ground as well. The walking was made particularly difficult with regular boggy sections of the path to slosh through

Then it was the pleasure of a dry walk along the road to the little village of Harbottle. There was a pub but no pub garden so I pressed on through the village and onto the site of Harbottle Castle.

Rather over officiously there was a dogs on lead rule. With 2 dogs this would have been a disaster but with a well behaved Tilly it was fine. We had snacks and a drink amongst the ruins. Like all the other castles round here, it was built by the English then briefly taken over by the Scot’s (by Robert the Bruce no less!!) before going back to the English. Its claim to fame was its was where Henry VIIIs sister, Margaret, was banished after the death of her first husband - King James IV of Scotland. 

During this rest I decided to cut out a 4 mile section of the walk up to Drake Rock. From where I was standing it looked a fairly steep ascent and wooded (therefore muddy) descent and I didn’t want to mess my foot up for a beach walk later. 

At the castle I met 2 couples - these were to be the only walkers I saw during my 3 hour (6 mile) hike - bloody busy Bank Holidays!! I walked back through the village and over a foot bridge to cross the river Coquet (the same river that runs through Warkworth).

There was then a long footpath / Bridleway that ran close to the river back towards Sharperton. On the map the bridleway seemed to cross the river but there wasn’t a bridge shown. I started to have my doubts but the only alternatives were road based and long!

So it was no great surprise when I got to the River Coquet again and was faced with the reality of my situation. The river could i’m sure be carefully crossed in the summer but this was late March after record rainfall in Feb and March! This picture shows the depressing site I faced.

I slumped down on the bank and considered my options. I smiled to myself to imagine the feedback Kim would be giving me at this stage. The alternative route was 3/4 mile back down the Bridleway (whence I came!) and then 1.5 miles on country lanes to get me to about 200 yds from the other side of the river! If Kim had been with me that would have been the chosen option. But she wasn’t and I really couldn’t face it. So ….. I took my shoes off and rolled up my trousers over my knees.

I thought it would be no more than 18 inches deep. I was wrong, at its worst it got well over my knees meaning my trousers were soaked. My stick was invaluable to help me across. It was made harder as I had to drag Tilly across as she wasn’t going anywhere voluntarily. It turns out she had to swim the last 5 yards. I think that’s the first time she’s ever swum!!

Goodness I was pleased to get my self onto the opposite bank. The feeling of satisfaction of a problem solved was immense. For several minutes I just laid on the bank with my wet trousers and bemused collie, in a zen like state of 

satisfaction. I’d been so focussed on getting across I hadn’t registered immediately how bloody cold it was!

The next part of the walk was lovely. Not sure if I was still in a state of euphoria from my river crossing or what but we crossed fields of sheep, then horses and then cows. Tilly was perfectly behaved on the lead. 

Then the best bit of the walk. Just as we were approaching our starting village of Holystone we literally stumbled across a little oasis of calm and beauty.

Lady’s Well was a tiny National Trust site. Amongst all the wet and rugged nature this little garden was so out of place. It turns out that in medieval times there was an Augustine Priory here. This was the well that the canonesses used and still feeds the village today. 

Tilly and I sat down for 10 minutes in a this beautiful place in a contemplative mood - well I was, I’m not sure about her?! I’m not religious but religious places like this have always been good for my sole. As usual my reflections were mainly about Kim. But I’m happy to report I left feeling better about life and concluded that this place I had stumbled across had some sort of mystical aura. Yeh, crazy I know!

The car was only another 15 minutes walk away. I lifted Tilly on board - she was too wet and knackered to jump up herself - and we headed back to Alnwick. I wanted to go in Barters Books (supposed to be one of the biggest 2nd hand book shops in the country) while I had the chance.

It didn’t dissapoint! I bought 2 books - one on body language and the other Tom Browns schooldays (set at Rugby School - my current employer!).

We headed for Dunstan Steads for one final look at the sea. The tide was right in so we walked towards Dunstanburgh Castle on the path across the sand dunes and then back on the edge of the golf course to the car. 

I fancied a pint. The normal village pub I go to was too busy so I went to newly re-opened Blue Bell. A really friendly landlord and good beer but the only food they had on was fish and chips. It was very average - certainly compared to the wonderful fish from Neptunes at Seahouses!

Back to Brunnehilda for more Cadburys chocolate, strawberry trifle and a DVD. This time, the Brazilian film, City of God. It was excellent - albeit very long!

Blogging in bed and then planning my getaway tomorrow. It’s been a splendid 3 days. I think each day has got better and the weather has been amazing. The next time I’m back here will be in August with my grandsons!! My favourite place with my favourite people - can’t wait! 

Seahouses & Berwick - 29th Mar ‘24

A good day. I planned a beach walk, a swim, fish and chips and a trip to Berwick. And that’s exactly what I got.

Another really nice day. Sunny from waking up in the morning to getting back to Brunnehilda at 5pm - apart from a 15 minute heavy shower (which I got caught in!).

After bacon bagels we headed to Bamburgh. I parked up at the side of the main road about 1 mile short of the village - thereby avoiding parking costs and reducing my walk into and back from Seahouses by a couple of miles. The beach walk was 3 miles in and 3 miles back. 

The tide was out so Tilly had lots of space to enjoy herself and, more importantly, I could get far enough away from my fellow beach walkers to have a swim.

I kept finding excuses not to do it until I found the perfect place. Rocks to put my clothes on, a nice sandy spot to walk out on and 100 yards from the nearest person. It was cold but probably no worse than the outdoor pool I swam in in Shrewsbury last week. I reckon about 10 degrees?

It was bracing! I probably only swam for about 5 minutes - that was enough! Tilly was getting a little stressed - it was like a small cove so she could run out on the rocks alongside me manically yelping!

It’s a gorgeous feeling when you get out! It was quite rough so hard to get a proper swim in. I was glad I did it though and headed off to get my prize - fish and chips from the wonderful Neptune fish restaurant in Seahouses.

There was a 15 minute queue but then it was BH Friday! The village was very busy with people fighting for parking spots. I was glad I had walked in!

I headed off to the rocks to find a secluded place to have my fish, chips and curry sauce. I shared it with Tilly of course - although she was much fonder of the fish than the chips - as indeed I was so that was a shame for Tilly!!

We walked back along the beach and reached the car at about 2pm.

Berwick was about a 40 minute, 25 mile journey up the A1. Amazingly, I’ve never been before! Gone over the bridge(s) in both a car and a train but never visited.

What a smashing place. So many old buildings and a wall that goes all the way around the ancient town - 1.3 miles apparently. There was so much history and they did it very well with lots of information notices. 

We had a nice walk ending up at an English Heritage place - old barracks and museum. It wasn’t busy - just Tilly and I and a Japanese couple. The 2 guys on duty were fabulous. One of them used to live in Kettering and knew Canons Ashby. The other was good fun, very knowledgeable and insisted on feeding Tilly treats. 

I was busting for a wee and unfortunately didn’t have the bladder control to linger! It was an interesting 45 minutes though and dogs were welcome everywhere. When I left the Barracks the heavens opened and we got soaked walking back to the car.

I stopped off at an Asda on the way out to buy a couple of DVDs. I ended up nearly having an incident in the car park. Someone had parked a good 10 cms over the line and into my parking space. I reversed in but was sticking out so far I had to back up very very close to the car behind. So close that the emergency brake came on. Unfortunately, I’d forgot I had my towbar still on and even more unfortunately, there was a guy sitting in the car behind! He realised he was well into my space so quickly reversed and got out of his car - as did I. There was no damage but I couldn’t help myself pointing out where my towbar was - 10 cms into my space! We left as friends!?!

Straight home down the A1. A nice Sainos fish pie while watching Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children. A harmless little film but no Pulp Fiction!

More Brunnehilda decadence eating Cadburys chocolate and strawberry trifle in my underpants with the heating cranked up to high. Now there’s a site your brain will take some time to un-see!! The rain was coming down so hard it was impossible to hear the DVD - thank goodness for sub-titles! NB Just re-read this, it was me, not the strawberry trifle in my underpants.

A much better day today. I don’t really know why but here are some differences:

I had a plan and stuck to it.

The walks were enjoyable - no bloody mud & closed footpaths!!

I managed a swim.

I incorporated food!

I got to see some history.

I talked to other folks - albeit only for 5 to 10 minutes!

Last day tomorrow. Thank goodness for that as I’ve only got enough Cadburys chocolate and strawberry trifle for one more “session”!

Oh, and with no Benny to keep her in check, Tilly has turned into a bloody “diva”!!!

Wick and Mouth - 28th Mar ‘24

Today was all about the River Aln and the town of Alnwick and village of Alnmouth.

Also a day where a number of walk errors meant that it wasn’t as fun as it should have been. Although, there was a big plus - the weather was not as advertised. It was grey and overcast until about 2 and then it was bright sunshine - albeit with a strongish cool wind!

I thought I would go inland today and therefore if the weather was bad there would be things to do. I headed for Alnwick (about 20 mins away) and parked up by the castle. I had picked a route from the OS App around the Castle Grounds - in fact to be precise, Hulne Park. It looked like a nice 8 mile walk through a lot of forestry- it scored highly on the App.

I walked through the town and picked up the route. After about 15 mins walking I was entering the Park. Although I wasn’t - there were signs up saying no dogs allowed. I quickly found another walk going around the North side of the town and following the river. It also sounded nice. And it would have been I’m sure but record rainfall and river walks are never going to be easy bedfellows - it was very wet and muddy. And i’d left my walking stick in the car!

We did get some lovely views of the castle. We crossed a few roads (including the A1) before crossing back over the river on the farthest east side of town. 

My OS App showed a footpath cutting through the fields and a housing estate back to Alnwick. Not open!!! They were building a new housing estate and they had shut the footpath. After a lot of walking around in circles, I suspected this was the case but thought it was probably illegal. I asked a young builder and he confirmed the only way to town was back on the main road.

So the last 2 miles of our 5.5 mile hike was on pavements next to a main road. My feet are not great on hard surfaces so by the time we got back to the car we were both knackered and feeling our respective ages!!

They are very friendly up here. A smile normally gets a smile in return and a cheery good day also prompts one back. Town was quite busy. I thought about getting a bite to eat in a local pub but Tilly was very dirty so I decided against it. 

At this stage, the sun came out. I headed off to Alnmouth, where the River Aln meets the sea. It was about a 20 minute drive. Here was next mistake. It was about 2.30 and, based on yesterday I expected the tide to be quite far out. It wasn’t. It was very high and still coming in! I decided to walk along the beach towards Boulmer and then walk back into town. Another mistake, when I did get back into town the coffee shops were shut! This was something that Kimbo and I always used to do regularly as well. 

Albeit, a bit squashed in an ever decreasingly narrow beach, we did have a nice walk by the waves and then back into town. We sat on a bench and watched the world go by for a bit. It would have been lovely with a coffee and a pastry but …

This sign just rubbed our noses in it! It was 3.15pm and clearly the kettle is not always on!!

We headed back to the van arriving at about 4.15 with the sun still shining. There are now 2 vans and 3 motorhomes here. The 3 middle aged couples in the motorhomes were all chatting - I kept my head  down and stayed in Brunnehilda. To my shame I couldn’t face all that positivity and happiness. Probably a sign of my state of mind today as it doesn’t usually phase me! 

Yesterday evening was wonderful but today has dipped a bit. Which is a shame as the weather did its best for me! I didn’t really enjoy the walks as much as normal. I’m too tired to process why that might be so I’m just going to put it down to those silly things that went wrong during the day.

Ready meal and Pulp Fiction to finish the day. I can’t believe I’ve never seen it before - but I haven’t! Great film. Tilly is absolutely knackered - she has just refused to go out for her evening wee before bed! That doesn’t bode well for a peaceful night!

I had a long chat with Thom tonight (and a shorter one with my mum and Laura)  but I don’t think I talked to anyone else at all today. I’m not sure if that’s part of the issue - oh well, we’ll see tomorrow. I’m sure Good Friday will live up to its name?!