Sunday, September 24, 2023

Dunstanburgh Castle - 24th Sept ‘23

This is my 4th time at Embleton Bay Caravan Park so I’ve walked by Dunstanburgh Castle at least half a dozen times but never visited! I decided today would be the day. The weather was due to be good until 2pm and then the rain would swing in for a couple of hours.

Another egg and bacon bagel breakfast before we left Brunnehilda at about 9.45. Although the sun was out it felt a little Autumnal - I certainly wasn’t tempted to take off my sweatshirt.

The plan was to leave the car behind today and walk across the farmer’s fields to the sea. Then to walk along the beach to Dunstanburgh. It’s a lovely walk, with a nice view of the coastline as you walk down towards the sea. Then across the golf course, walking on the dunes behind some beautiful holiday cabins and then dropping down onto the beach at Embleton Bay.




The dogs as usual were in their element. Enjoying the beach as if they hadn’t seen the sea for months - not yesterday!



A couple of women were braving the elements and swimming in the sea. I was feeling as jealous as I was impressed when I noticed several people were pointing and staring out towards them. A bit rude I thought. Then further along I noticed a couple with binoculars looking out to sea. My instinct was panic as I thought I might have walked into another bird fanciers kabal. No need to panic, it turned out they were all looking at a group of dolphins - I think it’s a school but to avoid embarrassment I plumped for group! This picture was taken 1 second after a couple of the dolphins had surfaced. Maybe you can imagine what it would have looked like!?

We climbed off the beach onto the Coastal Path and headed for the castle. Here again I suddenly noticed I was amongst a definite “group” of people. This time everyone had tripods and impressive cameras - there must have been at least a dozen of them. I knew they weren’t bird watchers as most of them returned my smile when I passed. Finally I found one on his own and asked what the attraction was. Apparently it was the perfect position for taking a picture of the castle and the sun and tide were perfect aligned - who would have known?!. This is roughly the position they were in - taken with an iPhone!!


We hadn’t even reached the castle when there was a third exciting moment. First dolphins, then photographers and then ….

I had just walked through the kissing gate at the end of the golf course. As I walked towards the castle I heard a dog whining. I looked ahead and saw a Labrador in the distance.  I couldn’t see what the problem was though. As I got closer I noticed the whining was continuing but was getting further away! The physics didn’t add up! I looked at Benny but he didn’t seem to be in the same intellectual place as me. Then I called for Tilly and she was nowhere to be seen. I suddenly realised where the whining was coming from - the kissing gate 100 yards back where she was stuck the wrong side of it!

Finally arrived at the castle after an eventful short walk. Not sure why but I got in for nothing! Not sure if it was because I mentioned I was in the National Trust (the castle is English Heritage), they have an offer on or because the lady just felt sorry for an unkempt old boy with 2 nice collie dogs? So I purchased a guide and we headed out.



The castle was built in 1313 by Thomas Earl of Lancaster. No one really knows why it was built where it was built. The best guess was that it was a “message” sent to King Edward II who had just got himself an impressive new castle at Bamburgh- Thomas and Kind Edward were not the best of mates apparently?

Unlike Warkworth, it is so ruined there are no real rooms to trigger your imagination. However, the views were bloody amazing!



The dogs and I had our drink and snacks down by the water - the other side of the outer wall.


After this I treated myself to a cup of tea and read some of the guidebook on a bench as the wind got up and the rain threatened. I thought it might be worth heading home ASAP!

The walk back along the Coastal Path was uneventful. I did notice however how busy the golf course was - Sunday excursions from Newcastle maybe? Benny was clearly very keen to walk on the beach - so we did just that.

After a bit we climbed back over the dunes, by the golf clubhouse and back up the road to the village of Embleton. 

The walk was about 7 miles. That’s 8,10 and 7 milers over the last 3 days. 25 miles! I know a lot of folks my age would do that in 2 days and feel ok - but not with my feet! Got to say, I think a fourth day of walks may have been one too many for me - home tomorrow though so all good!

The forecasters were spot on. I got back to Brunnehilda at about 1.30 and the rain started at 2! More chillaxing in Brunnehilda for a couple of hours. I spent most of the time watching an exciting North London derby and drinking tea!

Feeling hungry after all that in-activity so we headed out. The original plan was to go to Alnwick for fuel and a pub meal. All of a sudden I really fancied some fish and chips from my fave fish shop in Seahouses - Neptune. So that’s what we did - filled up the car with petrol and filled up me with fried food! It was as excellent as usual!

As I was leaving the fish and chip shop I came across this happy bunch. Playing drums, dancing, smiling and carrying some sort of effigy. I assume it was Hindu but Google was far from conclusive! Really not sure why they were walking towards the harbour at the little seaside town of Seahouses. Checking it out would have meant my chips would get cold - so I didn’t!

The rain had stopped so I gave Brunnehilda a treat - I washed her! The pitch has its own water tap so it seemed rude not to! Then I started packing her up as I’m looking for an early start tomorrow.

It’s been a great few days. 3 full days felt about right. I’m not sure I would have enjoyed the walk tomorrow as much as the first three days. The weather has been fairly poor but timing my outdoor activity around the accurate forecasts has helped. I also enjoyed the excuse to do absolutely nothing for hours and hours in Brunnehilda! My batteries needed charging and I think they are certainly boosted to at least half full!

Embleton Bay Caravan Park remains a favourite - although the 4G was not as good this time as usual?! It’s a mystery why?

Northumberland visits usually mean a lot of me time with little interaction with others. But, as mentioned, I’m getting better with that. Although, depressingly the third longest human interaction I have had this visit was with the monster from the Nature Reserve!

I’ll be back!


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