Dunstanburgh Castle - 24th Sept ‘23

This is my 4th time at Embleton Bay Caravan Park so I’ve walked by Dunstanburgh Castle at least half a dozen times but never visited! I decided today would be the day. The weather was due to be good until 2pm and then the rain would swing in for a couple of hours.

Another egg and bacon bagel breakfast before we left Brunnehilda at about 9.45. Although the sun was out it felt a little Autumnal - I certainly wasn’t tempted to take off my sweatshirt.

The plan was to leave the car behind today and walk across the farmer’s fields to the sea. Then to walk along the beach to Dunstanburgh. It’s a lovely walk, with a nice view of the coastline as you walk down towards the sea. Then across the golf course, walking on the dunes behind some beautiful holiday cabins and then dropping down onto the beach at Embleton Bay.

The dogs as usual were in their element. Enjoying the beach as if they hadn’t seen the sea for months - not yesterday!

A couple of women were braving the elements and swimming in the sea. I was feeling as jealous as I was impressed when I noticed several people were pointing and staring out towards them. A bit rude I thought. Then further along I noticed a couple with binoculars looking out to sea. My instinct was panic as I thought I might have walked into another bird fanciers kabal. No need to panic, it turned out they were all looking at a group of dolphins - I think it’s a school but to avoid embarrassment I plumped for group! This picture was taken 1 second after a couple of the dolphins had surfaced. Maybe you can imagine what it would have looked like!?

We climbed off the beach onto the Coastal Path and headed for the castle. Here again I suddenly noticed I was amongst a definite “group” of people. This time everyone had tripods and impressive cameras - there must have been at least a dozen of them. I knew they weren’t bird watchers as most of them returned my smile when I passed. Finally I found one on his own and asked what the attraction was. Apparently it was the perfect position for taking a picture of the castle and the sun and tide were perfect aligned - who would have known?!. This is roughly the position they were in - taken with an iPhone!!

We hadn’t even reached the castle when there was a third exciting moment. First dolphins, then photographers and then ….

I had just walked through the kissing gate at the end of the golf course. As I walked towards the castle I heard a dog whining. I looked ahead and saw a Labrador in the distance.  I couldn’t see what the problem was though. As I got closer I noticed the whining was continuing but was getting further away! The physics didn’t add up! I looked at Benny but he didn’t seem to be in the same intellectual place as me. Then I called for Tilly and she was nowhere to be seen. I suddenly realised where the whining was coming from - the kissing gate 100 yards back where she was stuck the wrong side of it!

Finally arrived at the castle after an eventful short walk. Not sure why but I got in for nothing! Not sure if it was because I mentioned I was in the National Trust (the castle is English Heritage), they have an offer on or because the lady just felt sorry for an unkempt old boy with 2 nice collie dogs? So I purchased a guide and we headed out.

The castle was built in 1313 by Thomas Earl of Lancaster. No one really knows why it was built where it was built. The best guess was that it was a “message” sent to King Edward II who had just got himself an impressive new castle at Bamburgh- Thomas and Kind Edward were not the best of mates apparently?

Unlike Warkworth, it is so ruined there are no real rooms to trigger your imagination. However, the views were bloody amazing!

The dogs and I had our drink and snacks down by the water - the other side of the outer wall.

After this I treated myself to a cup of tea and read some of the guidebook on a bench as the wind got up and the rain threatened. I thought it might be worth heading home ASAP!

The walk back along the Coastal Path was uneventful. I did notice however how busy the golf course was - Sunday excursions from Newcastle maybe? Benny was clearly very keen to walk on the beach - so we did just that.

After a bit we climbed back over the dunes, by the golf clubhouse and back up the road to the village of Embleton. 

The walk was about 7 miles. That’s 8,10 and 7 milers over the last 3 days. 25 miles! I know a lot of folks my age would do that in 2 days and feel ok - but not with my feet! Got to say, I think a fourth day of walks may have been one too many for me - home tomorrow though so all good!

The forecasters were spot on. I got back to Brunnehilda at about 1.30 and the rain started at 2! More chillaxing in Brunnehilda for a couple of hours. I spent most of the time watching an exciting North London derby and drinking tea!

Feeling hungry after all that in-activity so we headed out. The original plan was to go to Alnwick for fuel and a pub meal. All of a sudden I really fancied some fish and chips from my fave fish shop in Seahouses - Neptune. So that’s what we did - filled up the car with petrol and filled up me with fried food! It was as excellent as usual!

As I was leaving the fish and chip shop I came across this happy bunch. Playing drums, dancing, smiling and carrying some sort of effigy. I assume it was Hindu but Google was far from conclusive! Really not sure why they were walking towards the harbour at the little seaside town of Seahouses. Checking it out would have meant my chips would get cold - so I didn’t!

The rain had stopped so I gave Brunnehilda a treat - I washed her! The pitch has its own water tap so it seemed rude not to! Then I started packing her up as I’m looking for an early start tomorrow.

It’s been a great few days. 3 full days felt about right. I’m not sure I would have enjoyed the walk tomorrow as much as the first three days. The weather has been fairly poor but timing my outdoor activity around the accurate forecasts has helped. I also enjoyed the excuse to do absolutely nothing for hours and hours in Brunnehilda! My batteries needed charging and I think they are certainly boosted to at least half full!

Embleton Bay Caravan Park remains a favourite - although the 4G was not as good this time as usual?! It’s a mystery why?

Northumberland visits usually mean a lot of me time with little interaction with others. But, as mentioned, I’m getting better with that. Although, depressingly the third longest human interaction I have had this visit was with the monster from the Nature Reserve!

I’ll be back!

Amble, Druridge Bay CP & a very Agressive old Woman! - 23rd Sept ‘23

It’s 6.30 at night and I’m prostrate in Brunnehilda’s big old Teutonic bed unable to move. Tilly and Benny are under the table in a similar position. Today’s walk has certainly taken it out of us all and nothing short of a lazy indulgent evening of ready meals, beer, Cadburys Chocolate and Tudor porn will get us back on our feet!

The day started late for me - i slept in until 9.30. I treated myself to eggs and bacon bagels with my pot of tea. We left the campsite at about 11.30. The plan was to go south and walk unchartered beaches south of Amble.

I’ve pretty much walked the whole coastline from Bamburgh to Warkworth so it seemed natural to push on south and see what things were like down there.

Turns out it’s more of the same. Although I was very glad my walks are coinciding with the low tides this week. I think a high tide walk may not have been any where near as pleasurable!

We parked up on the southern edge of the odd town of Amble - by a big holiday Park. I say odd because it’s relatively big, not a bit pretty, full of terraced back streets and seems a bit like an old mining town - maybe the historical docks … I need to Google it!

The 4 mile walk on the beach was wonderful - again. The land-side scenery is not as pretty down here but the beaches are just as fab. The weather was bit a bit mixed. Some sun but lots of dark clouds and the occasional spell of drizzle.

We had our snack / drink on a rock by the impressive sand-dunes at Hadston Links.

As yesterday, I decided to ring the changes with a return walk inland - ignoring the beautiful beach and the convenient coastal path. Turns out that was a bit of a mistake!

Although it started well enough. We walked through the very busy but pretty Druridge Bay Country Park which completely surrounds Ladyburn Lake.

At the top of the lake we had the fun opportunity of crossing a ford / weir using stepping stones. I think I enjoyed it more than the dogs!!

Then it started to go wrong. Firstly we came to a very busy main road and realised we couldn’t walk along it so headed off along a footpath that ran parallel. The path had seen better days and was very hard walking across ploughed and wet fields. Then after recrossing the main road we looked for another footpath on the map - this time the path didn’t even exist!!

I just had to head towards the sea and walk along a number of farm tracks east wards. None of them footpaths. I was very lucky to eventually come to a fence that I could throw the dogs over and clamber into a place called Hauxley Nature Reserve. This is where my problems started!

We walked upto the visitors centre to be greeted by 2 middle aged ladies drinking coffee. They told me I really shouldn’t be in here with dogs and asked me where was I trying to get to. I told them and they very politely gave clear instructions how to get out the Reserve and on to the path towards the sea. 

My exit necessitated walking through the reception building and that’s when it all kicked off. A middle aged woman was on the phone. She saw me and literally couldn’t contain herself … What are you doing?; Where have you come from?; How did you get here?; You shouldn’t have dogs here; Did you pass through here it’s the only entrance?; How did you get into the Reserve?; Why are you here? There was just too many questions to even consider answering any of them so I just muttered something about being lost, thanked her for her concern and let her get back to the poor person on the other end of the phone line.

I really can’t think the last time anybody talked to me like that. With so much hatred, resentment, aggression and fear. I’m sure it must have been at school but I can’t ever remember being faced with anyone with so much venom and naked aggression spewing out. I guess I’ve been lucky - or maybe I just forget any morons I meet in life? Walking away I made a connection between last years obnoxious bird watchers and this years Wildlife Trust woman - why do people that clearly have a passion for wild birds HATE dogs and dog owners so much? Surely they should have a passion for all animals? It’s a bit like being a vegan but being happy to eat chickens because they annoy you! Then it struck me, that’s maybe where the movie name cam from …

Anyway, I didn’t let the old bag phase me and made a mental note to write to The Northumberland Wildlife Trust and suggest one of their employees might like to apply for the new vacancy of Security Advisor at Wandsworth Prison - a job much more suitable for her obvious skills and “warm” personality!

I was soon back on the beach with more of my type - dog owners. I felt a bit like a refugee would have felt after fleeing a worn torn country and arriving at a safe haven. Thankfully there was no plane to send me to Rwanda just a wide open sunny beach!

The last mile back along the beach was hard work. By now my left heel was really hurting and I have got to say, seeing the car parked up in the car park was a sight for sore eyes!!

The walk was about 10 miles in about 4 hours walking time. All 3 of us were very pleased to be heading home to Brunnehilda. Tilly was so knackered she couldn’t jump up into the boot. After one failed attempt I lifted her in - that’s the first time ever I’ve had to do that!

So another lazy evening of blogging and chillaxing. I even squeezed in a bit of the Irish rugby game, Match of the Day and the trashy “my mum, your dad” TV programme. 

Sun and showers are forecast for tomorrow so I need to be up earlier to enjoy the better weather in the morning. Planning to go to Dunstanburgh Castle and steer well clear of any twitchers and Wildlife Trust employees!!!

Seahouses to Bamburgh - 22nd Sept ‘23

SORRY: Its late (no 4G at the campsite), sorry it’s long and sorry it’s self indulgent. 

Rather like her owner, Brunnehilda is falling apart - physically! First it was the kitchen sink pump, then the TV/DVD and now it’s the toilet flush!

As dramatic as this sounds, everything is open to a bodge! The front water pump works if I turn on the wash hand basin tap. The TV/DVD has been replaced by a bigger £100 special offer machine from Mr Bezos. And I have a big bottle of flush mix ready to go - flushing manually.

I found a You Tube video on how to fix the flush. I gave it a go when I came back from my walk. It didn’t work!

The forecast was good upto about 2pm so I needed to get up and about early. I had breakfast of tea, bagels and cereal, a nice long chat with my neighbours (a 60 something couple from Cheshire) and was parking up at the car park at Seahouses harbour by 10.15am.

I was back in the car park by 2.15pm having completed a lovely 8 mile circular walk to Bamburgh. On leaving the busy car park I had an all day parking ticket to give to someone. There was a 60 year old ish couple and a young couple with a baby queuing for a ticket - guess which one I gave it to?!

I walked to Bamburgh along the beautiful 3 mile long beach. The tide was out so there was lots of space for the dogs to enjoy. Lots of dog and dog owners but they were all (including my 2!) impeccably behaved!

I had a nice chat with a lady walking 2 collies. There is some sort of invisible bond between collie owners. I can’t explain it but it’s there. We had a long chat about our idiosyncratic mates. Turns out she lives right on the coast and had recently written a children’s book about her 2 dogs - “Sheep to Shore”. And by the power of Goggle, here it is. Available from EBay and WH Smith’s at £9.99!

I was enjoying the beach walk so much I walked another 1/2 mile or so past Bamburgh until I got to Blackrocks Point lighthouse. At this point I turned for home.

Bamburgh looked magnificent in the September sun. We had a drink and a snack at the foot of the huge town side walls.

Then it was back to Seahouses over the fields, not quite as exciting but we did meet lots of friendly(?) local inhabitants- horses, a bull, cows, calf’s, bullocks and a herd or 2 of sheep. Gorgeous views as well across the fields to the sea.

By the time I was back in the car I was knackered so straight back to Brunnehilda for some R&R. Not quite straight back - it seemed rude not to stop at this ice cream parlour at the side of the road.

Sleeping, eating, blogging, Glimpsing, drinking, Tudor mini seriesing and it was soon 6.30!! I’d managed to miss a scheduled Whats App catch up with Rusty, Nicky and Simon. I forgot to look at my diary and the phone signal at the site is poo - d’oh!! 

I headed out to Dunstan Steads for an evening walk along the beach, by Dunstanburgh castle and then back along the golf course footpath. 

Arrived at the local Embleton village pub (The Greys Inn) at 7.45. The staff were amazingly friendly and fitted me into the only available table / seat. I was in a back room with 8 x 50/60/70 something couples. I’m passed the stage where I’m jealous or wish them physical harm but I do just really want them to know how bloody lucky and privileged they all are and to enjoy and treasure every bloody moment! Of course, I didn’t say anything!!

I went for a local pork stew. It was tasty but I wouldn’t have it again. The Alnwick IPA slipped down nicely though!

Back to Brunnehilda for a cup of tea, more Tudors and a dreadful (but compulsive viewing) TV programme called “ My mum, your dad”. It’s like Love Island for the over 50’s! A bit depressing though that the genuinely nice guy got rejected by several women in favour of the slimey egotistical guy! C’est le vie!

WARNING: My regular Brunnehilda trip moment of self reflection and contemplation is ahead - that I’m sure my kids would rather I kept to myself!! 

It was a year ago I was holidaying in Northumberland and exactly a year yesterday that I met a crazy fungus lady that caused me to contemplate my situation. She was the only person I had a proper conversation with over that 5 days holiday! It made me come to terms with a degree of loneliness that was now part of my life. I must admit if I thought then that 12 months on and nothing would have changed I would have been a little depressed. But here we are, 12 months on and I’m not depressed at all about it! Partly because I’m getting better at tolerating my own company, partly because my wonderful family gives me so much but mainly because I’m beginning to realise something I always knew - Kim was like winning the lottery and finding another one is like 2 lottery wins in the same lifetime! Maybe I need to look for the opposite of a beautiful, feisty middle aged woman - an ugly compliant young man!! 😂 

NB I could never manage to explain to Kimbo (in my defence she was no statistician!), that once you’ve won the lottery a first time, the odds of winning it again are exactly the same as someone else winning it for first time!!!

I had expected that after another 12 months I wouldn’t think of her quite as much during a typical day. Well I got that wrong too - I do but 12 months on I see this as more of a blessing than I would have done a year ago. I know she’s constantly in Laura, Thom and Bobby’s thoughts as well so it sorta makes me feel closer to them as well?!

When I think of her now it’s a bit like pulling a plaster off really quickly. The pain is over in an instant and then you just feel content and happy. A year ago it was like pulling the plaster off very slowly with all the associated discomfort!

Anyway, enough of my wallowing self reflection … the bottom line is, 12 months and on I’m still successfully working on getting better at the most important thing in my life - being the best dad and grandad I can be and continuing to make her proud.

And who knows, I might meet the crazy fungus lady again tomorrow!!?! 😂