Dunstanburgh and Craster - 19th Sept ‘22

What a weird day - Everything, and I mean everything, was shut. It felt like Christmas Day. It was fairly busy with folks out and about though. Now, I don’t mean Brighton Beach busy but for up here, it was a busy day.

The weather helped - sunny most of the time with lots of blue skies. Even when the sun went in and on top of the windy cliffs it really wasn’t that cold. I didn’t have to cover my T shirt with a sweat shirt until my evening walk at 6.30!

I can’t help but compare 2021 with 2022 Northumberland visits - both geographically and emotionally! Let’s start with the touristy bit and tell you what I got upto today …

Slept in until gone 9.30. A leisurely breakfast and out by 10.45. The Brunnehilda breakfast of choice remains bacon bagels although this morning I chucked a fried egg on top as well - racey start to the day eh? Exactly as the Queen left Westminster Hall pulled by 80 sailors, I left Brunnehilda pulled by 2 crazy collies.

I decided not to use the car today. Mainly because I have no diesel (the light came on for the last bit of the journey and it’s not easy to fill up with Brunnehilda in tow) and I read that most of the fuel stations were shut today- I didn’t want to drive into Alnwick and then not be able to get back.

All good though, there is a lovely footpath from the campsite across the fields that joins onto the Coast Path (St Oswalds Way). Then it’s a quick drop to the north end of Embleton Bay at Low Newton by the Sea. It took about 35 minutes. On the coastal path I met a chap looking for his dad - he asked if I’d seen an old man with a dog. I wanted to say, “only when I pass a mirror” but he was clearly a little stressed so I said no and offered to help him. We walked the 50 yards onto the beach, agreed to split up and then he saw him in the distance. Panic over.

It was a gorgeous walk on the beach. Quite a few dogs and folks out but all went well. The ones that were off the lead were no problem and I gave the ones on a lead a wide berth. The sun felt really hot although I noticed the weather had confused lots of people - there was as many anoraks as there were T shirts!

I walked the entire length of Embleton Bay - North to South. Getting off at the end of the golf course and climbed up back onto the coast path to the foot of Dunstanburgh Castle. What a fantastic looking place - such a shame it was shut. There were quite a few folks now who had clearly made the long walk along the coast from Craster. English Heritage would have taken quite a bit of admission money today.

I stopped for a wee rest and realised I had done a 2 out of 10 job on packing my ruck sack. No dog treats, no food for me, other than some soft Oreos and no dish for the dog’s water! My cupped hand got round the dog water issue but the lack of food was going to be a problem unless something was open at Craster.

It’s here that I had my only meaningful chat of the day. I saw a middle aged lady rummaging amongst the ferns, clearly looking for something. After watching her for a few minutes, I went over and cheekily asked what she was up to. Turns out she was looking for and recording fungi! I’m not sure if she was an academic or just a little eccentric. Turned out she had found a lot more yesterday at Holy Island! We had a long chat and I now know a lot more about rare fungi than I did yesterday! I was tempted to tell her the joke about why the mushroom went to the party but I guessed she would have heard it before so we just talked about fungi and border collies.

If I had been with Kim, we would have turned back now and retraced our steps - especially with the lack of provisions - but I pressed on the couple of miles along the coast to Craster.

I went to Craster last year and bought some smoked kippers from the Smokery. Not open, nor was the pub, nor was the cafe, nor was the shop. I managed to find an ice cream van - I thought about telling him how disrespectful he was for opening but my need for sustenance outweighed any smart arse comments. The dogs and I shared a huge tub of vanilla - the tub was deliberate so that I now had a bowl for dog water!

I found another higher up footpath out of the village and back to the Castle. Then, to continue to mix it up a bit, I walked not on the beach, but the other side of the golf course on the official coast path - ironically further from the coast than the path running parallel to it by the beach. By the time I got to Dunstan Steads my feet were hurting so I fancied getting my shoes off and walking on the sand - so thats what I did!

Jings, the North Sea is cold! I walked / paddled for about 15 mins and rather than my feet warming up it started to feel like I was getting frostbite! I put my socks back on pretty darn quickly. I retraced my steps from this morning - off the beach at Low Newton by the Sea and back over the fields to Brunnehilda. Arriving back at the campsite at about 4.15. 5 1/2 hours and about 9 miles since setting off. 

At this stage we all crashed out for an hour or so. I can’t really remember what we did but an hour passed before I cooked pork loin with pepper sauce and salad. It wasn’t great but I was bloody hungry so it was finished off. 

Another episode of The Waltons and then out for a quick walk around the farmers fields and into the village - about 45 mins. The dogs are really knackered now!

Been blogging for ages now. So long, I’m going to have to fix some supper - bagels and marmite peanut butter?

That’s a bloody long blog and I haven’t even started on the emotional stuff yet. On that score it’s not been a great day. Not sure if it’s the lack of interaction (fungi lady excepted) or the annoyance of losing some hearing in my good ear and all the fuss / tests that’s going to bring my way, but I haven’t felt anywhere near the top of my game today.

Comparing this year with last, I am noticing some key differences in how I’m feeling - good and bad! I’m still internally processing them and what it all means. When I make sense of it all, I’ll let you know!

Northumberland Again - 18th Sept ‘22

It was almost a year ago that Brunnehilda and I were in Northumberland - the end of Sept ‘21. It was my first trip on my own since the horrible baptism of fire to Woolacombe in August! I had one dog in tow last year, I have both crazy collies on this trip. It’ll be interesting to see how I get on and feel this year.

As always I was dreading the preparation, hooking up and journey. I don’t know why but it’s always the worst bit and I’m very conscious that I could easily find an excuse at this stage to abort! Thankfully I don’t as I keep my eye on the prize - the nice time I have once I’m there and settled.

After some fabulous backing skills (even if I do say do myself!), I was hooked up in record time. The mirror and brake checking are a bloody pain and a drawn out process on your Todd! I missed Charlie, my travel companion on the last trip!

On the road by 10.40. The trip computer says 250 miles and 4 hours - yeh right, that doesn’t factor in towing a big lump of German metal behind you!

After 2 1/2 hours in to an uneventful journey I stopped at Wetherby Services, which I reckoned to be about half way. I had the usual bad luck finding a caravan parking space (it’s a very busy services) so ended up with the HGVs. Had a quick chat with a lovely Yorkshire lady truck driver. I asked her for some reversing lessons and she suggested it was nothing that 10 years of practice couldn’t solve!

Got myself a Pret and ended up in the queue with John Cooper Clarke. What a thrill - I bloody love his bloody poetry and he’s always such a hoot on “Would I Lie to you”. I didn’t have the balls to speak to him so I left him and his mate to enjoy their Pret in peace.

I took the dogs for a quick leg stretch and drink before getting on the road again. Another great journey with no dramas arriving at Embleton Bay CL site at just before 5pm.

I started to back into the space - very badly- then heard Kim telling me not to be so stupid. To quote her, why have a dog and bark yourself - use the bloody motor mover. So I did, except the bloody batteries in the remote had run out! 

A neighbour (in a brand new Volvo XC60) came to my rescue when he saw me scratching around to find a spare battery. He didn’t have one but he came up with the bright idea to pinch the one from the fire alarm. Great idea, it worked and I manoeuvred  the old girl into place. Then had a nice long chat with him. Turns out he and his wife have just retired and are travelling - sounded familiar!? Comes from south Manchester. Very friendly, like most Northern Caravaners!

I set up really quickly once the battery thing was sorted. This site has water taps by the pitches so filling Brunnehilda up was very quick and easy. I was heading for the beach with the dogs by 5.45. 

I drove through the village to Dunstan Steads- the access to Embleton Bay beach and about a 5 minute drive from the site. We walked across the golf course to access the beach and there it was - just as I remembered, bloody marvellous.

The dogs had a crazy time running off the stresses of 6 hours in the boot of a Volvo! It was a smashing hour long walk along the beach and back through the dunes between the golf course and beach. Just a few folks around, certainly not enough to cramp our style in any way! The sea was amazing. The noise, the smell, the vistas … it was all just perfect. With one obvious flaw - the fact I was enjoying it with dumb and dumber and not the person that should have been there with me!

Grief is such a strange thing. Someone said, it’s doesn’t get any smaller, it’s just that other stuff gets bigger! Im not sure but I do know that everyone is different and as I walked along that beautiful beach I decided to myself that a year on hadn’t made a lot of difference to how I was feeling. Although there was one slight but maybe significant change that came to mind - I don’t feel up to sharing that at the moment! Don’t know why though?

The sun was going down very quickly so we headed back to Brunnehilda. Both my neighbours were out / at the village pub I think - I saw a new Volvo XC60 parked outside as I drove by! So we had the field to ourselves - they had a run around and had their tea while I sat outside with my book, a Belgian Beer and a couple of Twix bars!

Indian microwave ready meal for tea for me. I enjoyed it while watching an episode of The Waltons - another Brunnehilda tradition. I was just starting to feel a bit down when Bobby rang. Perfect timing and perked me up. Although Brunnehilda’s big German bed was beckoning so I went to bed to listen to Spots and do some blogging. Thom rang before I’d finished so had another nice chat before settling down.

One big difference to last year, is that I really couldn’t listen to music a year ago. I had Spots on for most of the journey up the M/A1 which was nice. I turned onto Radio 2 for the last hour or so - big mistake. Due to the “occasion” they are playing lots of sad songs. After Let it Be, Annie’s Song and then She’s Always a Woman, I was welling up a bit. The power of music - and bloody John Denver for God’s sake!?

The Queen’s funeral tomorrow - I suspect I’ll be one of a select number of folks in the Uk that won’t be watching! 

Tenby Dinosaur Park and Freshwater East - 17th Aug ‘22

A better day today. Woke to drizzle but from about 9am it was classic “dry with sunny spells” - up-to about 21 degrees. Before climate change, this is what used to constitute a typical English summers day.

A repeat of yesterday morning. Charlie 45 minute in the shower (more hairy towels), bacon bagels and cereal for breakfast and me 15 mins in the shower.

We had a bit of a debate this morning about what to do. It was all very civilised and grown up I have to say. After a few minutes we agreed not to go on a boat to Caldey Island and find a nice Sandy surfing beach in favour of a trip to Dinosaur Park just outside Tenby.

On reflection I think this was a pretty good decision- well done MacArthur Boys. We arrived at said Park at about 11. It was busy but not unbearable. We didn’t have to wait more than 10 mins for any of the attractions.

Charlie was very good, going on a lot of things with his wee brothers. I sneaked on a few as well. Slides, water slides, electric cars, foot golf, crazy golf, playgrounds and a maze to name but a few. 

We had a lovely 30 minute stroll in a wood in the sunshine spotting  lots of the parks inmates. 

But the highlight, for me anyway, was a safari foot tour around another wood seeing lots of “moving” dinosaurs. The wee girl (about 19 years old) who gave the 20 minute tour was absolutely fantastic. So much energy, so much fun and so knowledgeable. She got everyone - adults and kids (including Charlie!) doing all sorts of strange things and making odd noises as we got totally immersed in the world she created. She even picked on Charlie at one stage (after picking on me). Bless him, his face went the colour of Harry’s Man Utd shirt!! Note to self: I need to write an email to The Park and tell what a star they have.

After about 4 hours we were done. So ice creams and then we were outta there. 

Actually talking of snacks … I surpassed even Grandma with the array of snacks I had in my rucksack today! Just as well, as looking at dinosaurs is blimin’ hungry and thirsty work. 

Charlie fancied more fish and chips from Saundersfoot, so that’s what we did. It was just as gorgeous. This time we ate it overlooking the harbour (not the beach) with a couple of huge seagulls keeping a close watch on us throughout the feast. Another good choice by the MacArthur boys!

Then we wasted 1.5 hours looking for a supermarket that sold DVDs. It seems big supermarkets in West Wales/ Pembrokeshire are as scarce as good 4G signals! They have bloody cheap diesel though so I guess it’s swings and roundabouts!?

We finally bought a couple of DVDs to watch tonight at an Asda close to Pembroke Dock. 

By this time it was 6 o’clock so straight to the beach at the campsite for a go in the kayak.

To its credit, the sun was doing its best to come out again.

Charlie did great - considering he hadn’t kayaked before. He was paddling the Twinnies around like a pro. We had fun for about 30 mins before the Twinnies got bored and Charlie’s arms ached - light weights!

Not sure what Kim would have thought of it all but I stayed off the kayak myself and kept totally focussed on the situation for fear of getting a mental / virtual reprimand from her!!

The last couple of days have been very odd. I’ve felt very close to Kim because she would have loved it all but not in a sad way as the boys have kept me grounded on the present moment. I don’t think about her as much when I have been walking in Derbyshire as I know she wouldn’t like the sort of stuff I do there. But crikey she would have loved every second of this time with her grandsons - just as I have.

Back to Brunnehilda. I got a lot of clearing up done - including giving the old girl a bit of a wash and putting down the sun canopy. Ironically, in the evening sun. The boys watched DVDs and snacked!!

Just realised, in contrast to Charlie’s robust cleaning routine, the Twinnies haven’t had a wash or cleaned their teeth for 2 days and they’ve drunk and eaten their body weight in fizzy drinks, crisps, chocolate and sweets. Now I know a responsible grandad should care about this but .. I don’t. Better not tell their mum and dad though!!

Home tomorrow. Packing up will be challenging but I’m sure we’ll manage. Definitely do this again next year - just not sure if a 15 year old Charlie will be up for it! Count me in though if he is.

So to the scores on the doors …

Freshwater East Caravan Club Site:

Pros:

1. Fantastic position right by a fabulous beach.
2. Great facilities and everything very clean.
3. Good grass pitch right by all the facilities.
4. Very friendly staff. 
5. Nice details - shelf to put your chemical toilet cap on and non-sizeist mirror placements in toilet/shower block!

Cons:

1. No 4G and rather expensive and erratic WiFi.
2. Staff may have been friendly but they still wanted Brunnehilda (dirty foreigner!) to put herself face inwards.
3. The mega slope on the pitch - especially going front in!

Manorbier Castle & Saundersfoot - 16th Aug ‘22

A great day in Pembrokeshire.  Although the sun didn’t show up, we only had about 45 minutes  of drizzle during the day. It was about 18 to 20 degrees so not too bad. Coats and sweat shirts did make an appearance though (the first one since June!!) towards the back end of the afternoon.

A late night last night so Finners slept in until 7.30! Charlie was out to the shower block by 7.45 - returning at 8.30!! I’m not sure that I’ve ever spent 45 minutes in a month, let alone a day, in the shower when I was 14! He said that the towel was hairy and he had to have 2 showers - makes sense as Brunnehilda hasn’t been cleaned and de-dogged since Derbyshire!

Breakfast of Coco Pops and bacon bagels and we were ready to face the World - well Pembrokeshire anyway. I showered  (for a lot less than 45 minutes!) and we were heading out in the car by 10.30.

First stop a fill up with very cheap petrol (10p cheaper than at home). So cheap I very nearly filled an empty tank for under £100!! Second stop was Manorbier, about a 15 minute drive away. We parked up and walked up the hill to the castle.

Wow, what a great place. So much to explore - dungeons, towers, chapels, crypts, solars and Great Halls. The castle was built in 1130 but still felt very much alive. The medieval dressed mannequins  helped with that and caused the Twinnies a few double takes when they entered some of the rooms!

Lots of cramped spiral stone staircases with uneven steps and scary battlements on top of high towers - Kim would have bloody hated it! I did constantly have her on my shoulder though telling me to have the boys in a tight and controlled formation!

Lovely views from the top though …

After the exploration and a bit of a picnic in the Inner Ward we then had the obligatory game of football. To be expected whenever MacArthur boys stop moving forward for more than 2 minutes!

We had purchased 3 hours in the car park so it seemed a shame to waste it - especially as it was right next to the beach.

More beach golf, paddling and crabbing. We didn’t find any just a few little things that looked like sea wood lice! Got to say it was a bit chilly by the water so no great desire to go in for a swim! Thankfully some of the rocks provided shelter for the Twinnies to have a wee, but then when Harry announced he was desperate for a poo, we all trudged back to the car park and the public toilets.

Onto Tenby and then right out again without stopping. It was very busy and the car parks all seemed a long way out and very full. Charlie didn’t think it looked up to much as well so the Volvo kept rolling! 

I remembered Saundersfoot being nice and was quite close by. We had been to a really lovely hotel high on the cliffs for my cousin Paul’s 50th - about 10 years ago.  So we made the 15 minute journey further along the coast to try and get something to eat. Now Harry had pooed he was starving hungry - to be fair, all of us were. Beaches and castles do take up a lot of calories! 

Busy here again including a harbour side car park that necessitated driving round waiting for someone to leave. Didn’t take too long but then I had to wait in a queue to get a Pay and display ticket. Of the 4 machines, only one was working! We all dutiful queued up-to pay. As I was doing so I wondered how many nationalities, other than the British, would even bother given the circumstances but Brits do love a queue - almost as much as they like a rule to follow!

We had a quick look round deciding where to eat but the consensus (not an easy thing to get at any time with the 3 MacArthur boys!) was for fish and chips. And what a great choice. It might have been bloody expensive for 2 fish and chips and 2 kids nuggets and chips but it was bloody beautiful.

We sat by the sea front and devoured every morsel. Charlie said it was the best fish he had ever had. I said fish and chips always tastes better when you eat them looking out to sea. Harry nodded sagely and popped a chicken nugget the size of a tennis ball in his gob! Even Finners nearly finished his! His big brother ensured clean boxes all round. I was reminded of the extraordinary eating capacity of a 14 year old boy!

Ice creams for pudding and then back in the car and home to Brunnehilda. Stopping at a Morrisons Express to stock up on evening snacks. 

We spent a relaxing hour or so at Brunnehilda until the Twinnies, messing about as 7 year olds do, knocked a cold coffee all over the seats. Annoyingly I over reacted, shouting at them both. Kim was so careful with them in the van when eating - putting towels down and reminding them every few minutes to be careful. I had let my guard down and Brunnehilda’s upholstery had got a soaking!

I felt bad because they’d been pretty much perfect during the day! They gave me that rather startled but sort of repentant look and promised not to mess around when drinks where out again. That particular vow lasted for about 6 minutes!!

We went down to our beach for an hour to run off some energy with a game of football. It really was quite chilly. On the way back we passed a large party of Hasidic Jews walking up the road - so weird, it was like Stoke Newington had gone to the beach. I expected at least one quizzical question from the Twinnies but none came. 

Back to Brunnehilda. The boys played FIFA and watched a DVD. I made supper (bacon butties and warmed up pasty) and tried to watch The Cobblers on iFollow. The awfully slow Caravan Club WiFi, unlike the Cobblers, wasn’t playing ball and of the 90 minutes I paid £10 for I think I got to see about 10 minutes of it! They won 3-2 but I didn’t see any of the goals!

And so to bed after a really fun day. Poor old Finners has got the pleasure of sharing a bed with his grandad tonight! From my perspective, i could only think of one other person that I’d rather share Brunnehilda’s bed with than Finners - but she wasn’t  available!!