Southwold & Covehithe - 4th April ‘25

The last day so we decided to eat out for breakfast. We took our lives in our hands to cross the A12 and then picked up a pretty little footpath in to the village of Yoxford. We walked up the High Street and found the Black Dog deli. A local chain of coffee shops with really nice coffee and food - albeit at a steepish price tag.

We decided that today was going to be Tilly focussed. After the beach disappointment of yesterday we wanted her to get a good run on a sandy beach before we headed home.  

We knew Southwold beach was sandy so that’s where we headed. We parked up, fortified ourselves with an ice cream then found a sheltered (ish?) spot on the dunes to settle down for a bit. Di and I snuggled into keep warm (the sun was out but the wind was quite chilly) while Tilly ventured onto the main beach for an explore. 

After a couple of hours, as enjoyable as it was, we thought we would try another beach - Covehithe. The guide books said it was sandy, quite isolated and very quiet - perfect!

We parked up by the village church and walked down a footpath to the beach. It was indeed secluded and quite spooky in some ways. The erosion is very visible here with lots of decaying trees and vegetation cut off by the encroaching sea. We had about an hours walk up and down the beach - seeing only 2 or 3 fellow beach walkers during that time.

On returning back to Brunnehilda we decided to eat locally and popped back to the Kings Head for another delicious burger / pizza. We had a long chat with a lovely waitress. We were trying to guess where she came from by her accent. We got there eventually and we had a long chat about her homeland of Hungary and how she was enjoying her new life in Suffolk. It made me sad to think that evil politicians like Farage and our appalling client press are trying so hard to make us all hate and be angry with a lovely human being like this. Well fcuk him and fcuk them. 

We relaxed back at the van for our last evening. Tomorrow morning will be all about the pack up and getting on the road for home by midday. 

We’ve had a great 4 days. The weather was perfect, the site spectacular and the company wonderful. We’ll be back that’s for sure. 

Aldeburgh & Sizewell - 3rd April ‘25

The morning coffee in bed might have been the same but this morning we had the second coffee with an al fresco breakfast of yoghurt, fruit and nuts. A very healthy start to another gorgeous day. 

We sat outside the caravan and looked up the hill to the top of the field and the woodland beyond. Depending on the time of year, the field is covered in Sunflowers - hence the name of the site! It’s a huge field so must be quite a sight in late Summer. 

We decided on another beach and cute town - a re run of yesterday’s lovely trip to Southwold. This time we headed 10 miles south to Aldeburgh.

The town is indeed very cute and we spent a pleasant hour walking up and down the high street. We included a walk on the beach but this was far less successful! You don’t walk on Aldeburgh beach - it is very pebbly with the size of pebbles that make any sort of walk a bit of a chore. This was especially true for Tilly who clearly wasn’t enjoying her normal wave running / yapping. 

We decided to eat and drink instead of walk! I remembered a particularly nice smoked fish stall on the beach. I remembered correctly! Di and I shared some rather delicious smoked prawns while I bought a smoked mackerel and cheese pie for solo consumption later!!

After that we found a really friendly little coffee shop called The Chocolate Teapot and “forced down” some pastries! I think my pan au Chocolat had its own postcode! We had hoped to eat outside in the sun but it was too busy. It turned out the cozy little inside of the cafe was probably a better bet. Too busy needs quantifying- we’re talking 3 small tables occupied rather than a throng of holiday makers! In fact, this week has been amazingly quiet. I thought the weather might have brought folks out but it turns out the demographic of the few tourists there were very similar to the demographics of Di and myself!! Who’d have thought it?!

To stop Tilly spiralling into a manic depressive state, we decided to find a beach that she could walk / run on.

After driving through to show Di the twee and fascinating village of Thorpeness we headed for Sizewell. Could there ever be 2 different places side by side? Thorpeness looks like a set from the Stepford Wives while visiting  Sizewell feels like you’re stepped into a scene from Chernobyl!!

Tilly did get a run - although there wasn’t much sand. We found a sheltered spot behind a fishing boat and had a lie down on the picnic rug. Di read her Kindle and I just relaxed and opened all my senses to take it all in!

We headed back to Brunnehilda, got spruced up and headed out for an evening meal. We arrived at the recommended Queens at Dennington just as it was opening. It’s a lovely old pub with a strong local reputation for good food. And gee it was good -especially the Malteser Sundaes that Di and I agreed it would be rude to share so we had one each!

Back to Brunnehilda for some Earl Grey and more TV binging. We ended the day debating what we could do with the 2 geese eggs the farmer gave us earlier in the day - apparently they make nice cakes?!

Walberswick & Southwold - 2nd April ‘ 25

Brunnehilda’s blinds / curtains couldn’t keep the sun from waking us up. Well it was more like the combination of the background noise from a very busy A12 and an extremely noisy farm rooster!

Di and our Brunnehilda morning routine has developed as 2 cups of coffee and reading our respective online newspapers. Although I have to say with me it’s more the daily puzzles than any attempt to keep up with the news. Everyday gets more crazier and crazier as the Orange Narcissist continues to wreak havoc with world economies and political stability.

Today was always going to be about Southwold. Both Di and I have been before. The most recent time for me was a lovely family holiday just 3 months after Kim passed away and booked to help us all come together and celebrate her memory. So Southwold is, and always will be, a very special place for me. 

We thought it might be nice to walk Tilly along the beach into the town. The plan being simply to wear her out before the town / shops! We parked up in the centre of Walberswick and had a mooch around - including a very nice coffee and cheese scone / flapjack in the sunny courtyard of the village cafe. 

We then moved down to the main car park by the water. This is normally packed in the summer but today we shared with about 4 other cars. The usual fun and games paying for our session using an online App and then a short stroll over to the ferry across the river - £2 each (and the dog was free) for the 30 second journey.

The walk up the beach into Southwold only took us about 20 minutes but was thoroughly enjoyed by all 3 of us. It is very windy today and was quite chilly if you strayed into an area that was shaded from the sun. 

This was the first of many times this week where I contemplated about how much better it was to be sharing a beach walk with another human being rather than just a manic Collie! Someone to share the beauty and inspiration with and focus on chat, fun and be in the moment rather than thinking back to the past constantly and dwelling on what’s been missed!

We had a smashing walk up and down the high street . Di bought a couple of things from a charity shop - this being Southwold, it was a very up market charity shop! It culminated in a visit to the local bakery coffee shop - the 2 Magpies. Di  I shared a croque monsieur and Tilly and I shared a mammoth sausage roll - you can do the maths!!!

More walking then - off to the famous pier and then a leisurely promenade up and down it. As with most of our short walks, this too culminated in more treats. This time it was 2 very generous helpings of ice cream! 

We walked back across the golf course, over the bridge (further down the river) and along the banks of the river. 

By the time we got back to the car at Walberswick we fancied a drink!

Kim and I had really enjoyed Dunwich so we headed there for a quick beach walk first and then a drink at the Ship Inn. It was getting very cold by now so the beach walk was only for about 20 mins and the pub garden was ignored for the warmth of the conservatory. 

Then it was the quick journey home to Brunnehilda. Di wasn’t hungry but I couldn’t resist reheating the chilli I brought from home. I had this with a cuppa as we watched this weeks TV binge! The very wonderfully scripted and acted This City is Ours. 

A smashing day with lots of happy old memories for us both to think back on and loads of lovely new memories created.

Suffolk Trip - 1st April ‘25

The second trip of the year - this time not Northumberland or Derbyshire but back to Suffolk.

Unlike trips on my own with Brunnehilda, this and the last trip (in February to Embleton) the Travels With Brunnehilda blog has been written retrospectively. When I’m on my own there always seems lots of time to consider what I’m going to write and then to write it up. When I’m not travelling on my own that time seems to disappear - which I guess is a good thing. Someone to talk to during the day rather than consider what I’m going to write. Someone to spend time with in the evening rather than tapping on my phone!

We were due to be on site by 2 but I had a puncture the day before and I didn’t have that fixed until after lunchtime. So we didn’t leave Welton until gone 3pm. It was a good and quick journey with no stop and arriving soon after 6pm.

With Di as my co traveller again the set up was quick and easy too. She got in with doing all the stuff in the van while I sorted the outside. By 7 we were having our first cup of tea.

The site is amazing! It’s called Sunflower House in the charming wee Village of Yoxford. It’s right on the A12 so easy to access. Although we had a bit of a stand off in the village just before Yoxford. A very angry woman refused to back up for me (a caravan!) at a narrow part of the main road. She furiously gesticulated at me (and the 2 cars behind) to back up and let her through. She finally realised that was never gunna happen and greeted our wave of thanks when she did eventually back up with a tyraid of pure hate, anger and venom! Poor woman .. God knows she’s got going on in her life that she’s having to deal but I’m glad I’m not living in her head!!

The site is on a farm with a huge field leading into an area of woodland (with a pond). There are lovely walkways available to take the dog. Although the curious goats and angry geese weren’t that pleased to see Tilly.

We were quite tired after a long day so walked the 200 yards down the A12 to the Kings Head. A lively friendly little local pub. I had an amazing steak burger and Di had a chicken burger. We shared some very naughty fries smothered in all sorts of bad stuff!!

The day has been sunny from sun up to sun set. The rest of the week was forecasted to be exactly the same each day. And they were right - 4 days of nothing but bright blue skies and continuous sunshine - wonderful! 

Seahouses, Bamburgh & Holy Island - 22nd Feb ‘25

A gorgeous weather day was forecast and it didn’t disappoint. We were treated to coffee in bed with the glorious sun shining through the bedroom window. 

As we were getting ready to get out, Di noticed the owner of the camper van next door - and his dog. It was only bloody Ernie - again! We would have popped out to say hi but he and his owner seemed very busy getting ready to pack up and leave. 

We timed our leaving to get to Seahouses for lunch from my favourite fish and chip shop - Neptunes. We took advantage of the one hour free parking and ate our haddock and chips overlooking the sleepy harbour. A quick walk around the town and then forced an ice cream down on the way back to the car park. 

Our main destination of the day was the beach and town of Bamburgh. I had spent all week trying to teach Di how to say Bamburgh. She had been saying Bamber (as in Mr Gascoigne, the 70’s University Challenge host) all week and my tip of it being spelt and pronounced the same as Edinburgh only had a limited effect!

We parked at a spot Di had parked up with her camper van a few years earlier. It was up by the golf club and avoided paying any parking charges - yippee. We then had a wonderful walk along the gorgeous beach. The sun was out and the wind had dropped. I don’t know who of the 3 of us enjoyed it most? I also managed to join Tilly for a paddle - gee it was cold!!

We headed up to the town passing by the entrance to the castle. Unlike Dunstanburgh and Alnwick, this one was open. But at £18.75 and no dogs allowed in the actual castle, we decided that Baron Armstrong could do without our money and we’d go and spend it in the pub!

That said, we both had a soft drink in The Lord Crewe Arms on the pretty High Street with a lovely view of the incredibly imposing castle! Then a walk along the coastal road and beach back to the golf club and the car.

After checking the tide tables, it seemed rude not to head off to Holy Island for a quick walk / drink. We arrived in the car park at the edge of the village at 5.15. So the walk around the village, bay and priory was done in the gloamin. 

Of course we ended up at another dog friendly pub - Manor House Hotel. This time we did partake in alcohol - well it was well past 5 o’clock! And talking of dog friendly … we headed home to the Dunstunburgh Castle Hotel in our village (Embleton) for dinner. The steak I had was magnificent but the setting was even better. We were in the dog friendly lounge. Including our table, there were 5 couples and a guy all with at least one dog each sitting peacefully under their respective tables. Tilly was impeccably behaved. Although to be fair, she was absolutely knackered. 

It’s been lovely finding dog friendly places to eat. It’s not something I would have always bothered with - especially with Benny in tow - but Di is such a dog lover and would rather leave me in the car than leave Tilly alone while we eat!

More Sopranos and a decision made to not think about packing until tomorrow morning. We are aiming to leave at 10.30 to get home (via Melbourne) for 5.30. 

What a lovely holiday. Di is a great travelling companion and was right at home with 2 of the other girls in my life - Matilda and Brunnehilda.

Although Northumberland is not an area I went to with Kim, it was so nice to make new memories with Di whilst regularly thinking back to happy memories travelling with Kim.

I left 4 days ago wondering whether this might be one of Brunnehilda’s final trips. I’m travelling home looking forward to our next trip out in my Teutonic home on wheels. Both Di and I are very fond of Suffolk so maybe Brunnehilda will travel East next time?

Dunstanburgh Castle & Alnwick - 21st Feb ‘25

Yep, they were right about the wind. It got stronger and gustier during the morning / afternoon and then suddenly dropped completely at tea time. Thankfully the drizzle was only occasional and didn’t really stop us doing anything.

We decided to give Tilly (and ourselves!) a bracing beach walk early on. So we headed in the car to the nearby Dunstan Steads. We were on the beach in 2 minutes. Tilly was once again in her element and Di and I walked hand in hand against a howling southerly wind - it was like being in a giant sand blaster - but strangely enjoyable! Indeed holding hands with someone on a beach is something that brought back lots of lovely memories of Kim and something I am so thankful to be doing again with another special person (and no, I don’t mean that sort of “special”!). I always hoped one day I would and I know Kim would be happy for me. I’m certainly happy for me. I know Di is too!? Although, I think if Tilly could hold hands I might have had a bit of competition!! 

The wind died down a bit as we climbed up over the dunes and on towards Dunstanburgh Castle. The dramatic ruins at the top of the cliff against the background of an angry sea is so evocative. We climbed up the incline towards the entrance. It opens for the season tomorrow! No problem though as we weren’t planning to go in - too many sheer drops which is not good when you have a crazy collie in tow!

We admired the beautiful views over to Craster. Thought for a nano second about walking there and then headed for the calm of the car via the dunes / golf course / beach.

Back to Brunnehilda for a wee and then off to Alnwick - the perfect place on a windy drizzly afternoon. The Castle was shut for the winter so our collective minds went straight to food. A friend had recommended “Dirty Bottles” but when we got in and viewed the menu Di thought it felt a bit “chainy” - she was right! So we walked right out. A couple of doors up and Di was looking at the menu of a little cafe down a small and quant back alleyway - called Strawberry Lounge. A customer on his way out spoke to her and said that we really needed to get in there as the food was amazing and cheap! 

We went it and guess what - he was right. All homemade stuff. Di had a cheese toastie and the best chicken soup she’d ever had while I chose a rather wonderful cheese pie (and some beetroot soup). The owners were lovely and insisted on feeding Tilly some left over ham as we were leaving. What a place / find. It turned out, that according t’internet (referenced later) it was the best cafe in the town scoring 5 out of 5 with 499 reviews!

The rather large owner (who looked a bit like a cross between a 1970’s British pro wrestler and a Hells Angel) looked a bit concerned when i ordered. I think he expected that we had over ordered. He was right but not by as much as he thought!

Here again, I remembered the many lovely cafes Kim and I had found on our previous Brunnehilda travels and how wonderful it was to find another one with Di.

Feeling very stuffed, we walked through the town popping into a few shops that interested us. On the way out we popped into the amazing Barters Books. A huge second hand book shop set in an old Victorian station - including a miniature train running around the ceiling!

Retailed out we headed home. Although we fancied a drink before finally retiring. So we headed for the lovely hotel / restaurant in our village- The Dunstanburgh Castle Hotel. The staff and locals were great and it was very dog friendly. There was a quiz about to start but we felt the call of The Sopranos louder than the call of getting an intellectual stuffing from a load of Geordies?

So we were settled down with snacks and the Sopranos box set for the night. Considering the wind and the grey skies, it had been another splendid day.

Embleton Bay & an Afternoon Tour - 20th Feb ‘25

I know they get a “bad wrap” but weather forecasters tend to get it right - especially over the next 2 or 3 days. So, this weeks forecast has mixed news. Ok today (grey but no rain), very windy and drizzly tomorrow and a glorious sunny day the next. The temperature had certainly perked up too - into double figures! So, the plan was hatched for the next 3 days.

A lovely lie in until gone 10! This is such a treat in Brunnehilda’s big comfy bed drinking coffee and catching up on the news. Di reads the Mail and I peruse the online i newspaper. For holiday harmony we tend not to discuss the news element too much and just stick to the trivia, gossip and the puzzles. That said, Di sometimes feels the need to read out the Mails’s reasoned and rational opinion on things. This is the one time I do value my hearing disability!!

As there was no rain forecasted, we decided to leave the car at home and walk. I was excited to take Di on my favourite walk across the fields, over the golf course, onto the Coastal Path and then onto the beautiful little village of Low Newton by the Sea. 

It was a lovely walk taking about 45 minutes. It was a bit muddy but thankfully I had my walking stick. With all her exercise classes, Di has a stronger core than me so is better on her feet. Note to self  - get yourself fitter! I had checked the wonderful Ship Inn was open and serving food - it was.

We sat outside looking over the sea and ate fresh crab sandwiches and kippers. Goodness, they were good! This pub not only prides itself on the locally caught fresh fish but also brews its own beer. With its position right on the beach, it’s hard to think of a better place to spend an hour or so!?It was quite busy with lots of young families and dog walkers. Including Ernie (and his owner) from last night! We said “hi” and suggested they were following us from pub to pub!! 

Tilly was well fed on scraps of the kipper and dog treats but was desperate to get back in the water. We walked south along Embleton Bay beach. The weather was due to get worse so we decided not to walk all the way to Dunstanburgh Castle but get off at the nature reserve (about half way) and walk up to the golf club clubhouse and then up through the village and onto the caravan site. Tilly loved her walk - chasing in and out of the water yapping at non-existent sea birds. 

The walk was about 5 miles and we were sufficiently knackered to be concerned that going back to the caravan and a cuppa might mean a lack of motivation to get out again! So, we gave Tilly a drink and went straight out in the car.

I wanted to give Di a bit of a tour around and she was up for a car trip. We headed off to Craster, then to Boulmer, then to Alnmouth and finally onto Warkworth.

We parked at the foot of the impressive Warkworth Castle and hobbled into the Sun Hotel for a very pleasant cappuccino. The barman was a bit grumpy (although Di pointed out that this was partly caused by my deafness being mistaken for stupidity!) and a fellow drinker having a very loud phone conversation about a forth coming funeral. By the look on the face of his poor long suffering partner, she was just as pissed off with him as I was!

We headed home as it was getting dark  -although at this stage we were hungry again! We decided to try a pub I’d found on one of my first visits - The Joiners Arms at High Newton by the sea (yes, just above where we had lunched!). It had a good reputation which is why we struggled to park in the village and then failed to get a table. They were fully booked (in the dog friendly area) for the next 2 evenings too.

Muttering under our breath about “bloody tourists” we headed up the coast to find a replacement eatery. After a bit of help from Google Maps and my erratic memory, we made our way to The Landing at Beadnell Bay. Luckily they allowed dogs into the “tented” part of the restaurant. Tent doesn’t really do it justice as it felt very warm and luxurious with blankets on the seats and gas heaters roaring away.

I had a splendid fish pie and Di had an incredibly tasty steak. Although our eyes watered when they said a glass of white wine was a tenner!!

Back home to Brunnehilda to finish the Cohen Brothers film and then watch Season 1 Episode 1 of The Sopranos. Di hadn’t watched it before and you really shouldn’t get to our age without watching one of the finest pieces of TV drama ever made. I was happy to watch it all again - just as she was with me and helped me complete the gap in my viewing experience by introducing me to the wonderful Peaky Blinders a couple of months ago.

There seems to be high wind warnings for tomorrow so we might have to leave our hats at home in Brunnehilda!!

Northumberland Again - 19th Feb ‘25

Only the 3rd Brunnehilda trip in the last 12 months - and all to Northumberland!

This one was a special one - for lots of reasons! As mentioned at the end of the last trip - after a wonderful summer break with my fabulous grandsons - this was my first Brunnehilda trip with Di. Although that’s not strictly true as we did get a short weekend at Carsington Water (Derbyshire) where Brunnehilda provided the overnight accom for a friend’s 60th birthday party. 

Obviously, as usual at this stage, lots of thoughts of Kim as I hitched up Brunnehilda. I was on the road at about 10.30. My very speedy set up was facilitated by a visit the previous afternoon with the twins to get her ready. Although I wished I’d had the gumption to wash her - she looks incredibly grubby and “unloved”.

I parked in the lay-by by Di’s house just outside Melbourne. She drove a very full car up and emptied the contents into my car. She’s getting better, but I learnt from a smashing week away to a cottage in Wales in the summer, that Di doesn't do “travelling light”!!?

It was an uneventful journey up. The weather was grey, we stopped for a Pret at Wetherby and we stopped to refuel on the A1 at Darlington. We arrived at Embleton Bay Caravan Site (my usual) at about 5. Just in time to do a very quick set up - it’s amazing how quicker it is with 2 - and then down to the beach in the glomin’

Embleton Bay beach at Dunstan Steads was as beautiful as ever - even in the half dark. Tilly enjoyed her first swim and we carefully walked back along the dunes. 

We were hungry so it seemed rude not to pop into the lovely local pub - The Greys Inn. Di refuses (rightly) to eat anywhere that Tilly can’t join us - so she did. I have to say though, that wasn’t an easy option when Ben was still around - bless him. She was wonderfully behaved (Tilly not Di!), including a successful meeting with a lovely collie cross called Ernie.

The football was on the TV so, with a spot of Di’s (and mine if I’m honest!) favourite sport of people watching, we had a nice night. Although Di chose wrong and didn’t enjoy her meal quite as much - they also rather cheekily swapped fries for sweet potatoes fries!

Back home to Brunnehilda and watching the first half of Burn After Reading. Di hasn’t seen any Cohen Brothers films, so I thought this was a good one to start her education with. I thought the combination of George Clooney and Brad Pitt might give her an enjoyable introduction - and it did. 

So, a nice first day / albeit mostly in the car. A trip in Brunnehilda with someone else was something I was looking forward to but with some anxiety mixed in with the excitement. This is true for Di as well as she has “memories” of travelling in a campervan that will bring mixed memories back to her. But we both agree that you have to embrace the old memories in order for you to make new ones.